Previously...in Part 1
We had left our hot and tired photographers chilling in the pool and later the bar.
We had left our hot and tired photographers chilling in the pool and later the bar.
It was difficult to drag Adam out of there, but we eventually drove into Terlingua to scout out tomorrow's locations in this 'ghost' town and eat at the Starlight Theater/restaurant.
The day had been long and full and even the lovely Sierra, who took care of us at dinner, could not keep us up.
The day had been long and full and even the lovely Sierra, who took care of us at dinner, could not keep us up.
Good morning, as the sun rises over Terlingua. The colored ribbons of cloud combine to hide the rest of this sunrise so we turn toward the prominent buildings on the hill, the Perry School looking up to the Perry Mansion, and St Agnes Church in the foreground; their faces lit up in the breaks.
Behind the simple spirituality of St. Agnes Church is an old adobe structure that may once have been the priest's home, or perhaps a bordello. Like many of the converted miner's stone/adobe cabins there are signs of both occupancy and abandonment. It isn't about the size of your screen here. The old Lazy Boy is waiting for someone to just sit and watch the sun rise or set.
King of the hill, Harold Perry, was an industrialist from Chicago who in 1902 started the Chisos Mining Company for the cinnabar ore from which quicksilver was extracted. His mansion had a commanding view of the town at his feet and the shady front porch would have been a great spot to contemplate his empire.
You too can pretend to be the owner of all you survey (at least temporarily) and rent a refurbished wing of the house from Big Bend Holiday Hotel.
You too can pretend to be the owner of all you survey (at least temporarily) and rent a refurbished wing of the house from Big Bend Holiday Hotel.
He had the company store with a generous porch built on the hill just below him, and folks would meet there after a hard day's work. The view of the changing townsite of Terlingua and beyond to the Chisos Mountains was/is magic. Although it is now the Terlingua Trading post, the tradition continues and in the evening it's a popular place for locals and travelers alike to gather and sip a cold beer, tell stories, play a guitar or two or just sit and enjoy the sunset as it paints the distant mountains in Big Bend NP.
As you can see they don't gather for sunrise.
As you can see they don't gather for sunrise.
The boom years for the mine were leading up to the First World War, when mercury was in high demand for making explosives. Terlingua grew to a town of 1000 folks, with a school, store, mail delivery 3 times a week and plentiful jobs before the bottom fell out. Over time all but 58 souls moved along. Businesses continue to fade away. During major holidays, the Chili Cook Off in November, and spring break, the old town is hopping. And as beautiful as Big Bend is, it is still the least visited National Park in the lower 48, and the volume of tourists that pass through, or near, Terlingua are not sustaining the town.
Although there is quite an interesting assortment of places to stay in and around Terlingua, finding breakfast in there can be a challenge. And as the sun got higher and the shadows shorter, we drove to Study Butte. Terlingua Creek actually had running water in it thanks to the recent rains.
There is nothing quite so beautiful to me as the smell of rain on the desert.
Although there is quite an interesting assortment of places to stay in and around Terlingua, finding breakfast in there can be a challenge. And as the sun got higher and the shadows shorter, we drove to Study Butte. Terlingua Creek actually had running water in it thanks to the recent rains.
There is nothing quite so beautiful to me as the smell of rain on the desert.
The Alon Gas Station stands at the intersection of SR 118 and FM 170 and besides being, I believe, the only remaining gas station at the junction, it has a cafe too. I topped up the tank and we enjoyed good omelets there but the coffee was thin and tasted of treated water. There are two approaches to St Elena Canyon in Big Bend NP from the west gate. Depending on your vehicle and how recent the rain, the unpaved Old Maverick road can get rough (best to ask at the park gate as you enter); most take the long paved loop known as Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. Do it as a circle if you can.
The vertical walls of St. Elena Canyon, as well as Boquillas and Mariscal, have been etched by time and water through the primarily limestone plateau of the Chihauhuan Desert. For 118 miles the Rio Grande winds along the southern park boundary separating the United States and Mexico.
The vertical walls of St. Elena Canyon, as well as Boquillas and Mariscal, have been etched by time and water through the primarily limestone plateau of the Chihauhuan Desert. For 118 miles the Rio Grande winds along the southern park boundary separating the United States and Mexico.
We spent the middle of the day in the higher altitudes of the park and then returned again to the oasis that is Lajitas. The pool cooled us and the wine chilled us. It was a pleasure just to sit and reflect on all we had seen. I wrote with the best of intentions of publishing immediately but soon the wine and the sun made us soggy and best intentions disappeared. Next time though for sure.
It rained during the night, at times hard. Knowing we had to head home also dampened our spirits. We headed back through Terlingua with windows down just smelling the air. The rain had created several washes over the highway and after the first one caught me by surprise, and we bounced roughly over the sand and small rocks, we slowed down and enjoyed the ride. Terlingua Creek was angrier than I had ever seen it. We drove north on SR 118 past the little clump of shops on the west side where India, the lady in the painting, used to have her coffee shop, but that too was gone, another casualty of this local economy. About 20 miles south of Alpine we pass through one of the immigration check stops where armed and armored young men politely confirm that we are not illegals. Along the way, small ranches tucked into folds of the landscape confirmed my desire to someday live out here. After filling our tank again we stopped at Judy's Bread and Breakfast and, although they stretched the concept that great food takes time, it was in fact the best omelet ever.
We took US 90 almost to Lake Amistad. The road was rich with old abandoned buildings belonging to a time before freeways, and eventually we ran out of time.
As usually happens once you point the horse towards the barn, you end up racing home.
We took US 90 almost to Lake Amistad. The road was rich with old abandoned buildings belonging to a time before freeways, and eventually we ran out of time.
As usually happens once you point the horse towards the barn, you end up racing home.
As for Adam he is a stand up guy, and aside from the fact that every guy thinks he is the best driver in the world, easy to travel with. We spent 3 nights on the road and he is a considerate room mate and not a pig in the bathroom with water and wet towels.
We will ride together again and next time we will take the long slow way getting there because that is half the fun and the B side is a race home.
We will ride together again and next time we will take the long slow way getting there because that is half the fun and the B side is a race home.
Gracias
Note: All of these images, unless otherwise noted, are iPhoneography shot and processed in camera with my iPhone5.