Just as I was beginning to fear that I had somehow missed my train in San Marcos, the Texas Eagle crawled into the station, three and a half hours late. Most of the cars are double decker with most of the passengers riding in the upper level for the better view. Lower levels have a few seats for those who have difficulty climbing stairs, and the toilets and other services are on that level.
A conductor led me up the narrow stairs in coach class and indicated a partially empty seat next to a large man in the window seat who begrudgingly shifted his mass enough for me to sit. Worse still was the lack of center armrests separating the seats, and bodies. This car was pretty full as these passengers would be continuing on in this car once it was shunted onto the Sunset Limited heading west to LA. Most folks were stretched out trying to sleep. I quickly decided to find better seating at the transfer in San Antonio, hoping that it would be less crowded.
I noticed the porter's name tag and asked, "Mr Cherry, would it be possible to move forward in San Antonio?" He said that many empty spaces were allocated to passengers boarding en route but would see what he could do for me.
I suffered through an hour and a half of my spreading seat mate snoring and sputtering. On arrival I got off the train just to be free of him. It was slow work hooking up a second engine unit for the mountains ahead and then kicking our car onto the back of the Sunset Limited but finally the conductor's call came, "All Aboard" and as Mr Cherry returned I asked him again after scouting the forward cars if I could move up. "OK, but it wasn't me who said you could...how far you going again?" he asked. All the way I responded and went and collected my bags and moved into an empty double and spread my stuff out. I celebrated this minor coup with some water and an organic energy bar. As Mr Cherry was passing I dug the folded $20 bill out of my jean jacket pocket and gave it to him saying, "here's my other ticket."
"Oh, thank you." And our deal was done. A well spent $20.
It's funny how much more comfortable I was immediately and not so tired as I had been a short while ago!
I managed to pretzel my body into a fetal sleep position and actually get a couple of hours, although not without penalty.
After experimenting with positions others seemed to find restful and envying the young ones ability to curl up anywhere, I drank some water, ate some dried apricots and decided to use the facilities before the morning crush.
A sudden blaze of lights, many like blue sapphires glowing in the predawn dark, indicated a large airfield and google maps confirmed that it was Laughlin AFB just east of Del Rio, where we stopped briefly. Soon a few early risers walked like unstable zombies towards the dining car. The prospect of fresh coffee and real food had me join the walking wounded. Travelers that paid for the roomettes not only slept better but their meals were included which made the investment, especially if you booked early before the prices started moving up, a very good deal.
Two others have preceded me into the dining car. The steward indicated a table and laughed as he said,"Man I just can't get going this early," and returned with my black coffee. I ordered the omelette with spinach, onion and tomato and a side of bacon. The tablecloth is soft paper with the initial look and feel of cloth, the cups are paper or plastic and the cutlery is 'made in China' cheap steel.
I hear someone approaching from behind and as the steward indicates a table a female says,"I'll sit with the old guy with the long hair. Howard, our steward, and I laughed as a lady sat across from me extending her hand, "Hi I'm Anna.
"Ron", I said shaking her hand, "and what do you mean old?"
"Just like to mess with people, it breaks down barriers faster", she smiled. Howard brought her a coffee as my breakfast arrived and she ordered the same.
"Anyway we're probably the same age."
We ended up talking through most of the morning until she got off in Alpine where her boyfriend was waiting to take her home to Fort Davis.
We were in the heart of Far West Texas and this train trip reminded me of how much I feel at home here.